Defective cable or connection (battery to starter):
With ignition switch in the "START" position, check
voltage at connection of battery cable to starter. If
there is no voltage, or if the voltage is low at this
connection and there is good voltage at the battery,
check for a defective cable or connection between
the battery and the starter.
Oil too thick for free crankshaft rotation:
Use the recommended Lubrication Viscosities as
found in the Operation And Maintenance Manual.
Defective starter motor:
Remove and test starter motor. Make repairs as
necessary or install a new starter motor.
Extra outside loads:
Damage to the power take-off equipment (if
equipped) and/or transmission can put extra load
on the engine. This prevents free rotation of the
crankshaft. To check, disconnect the transmission
and power take-off, and start the engine.
Mechanical problem inside engine:
Disassemble the engine and check all components
Problem 3: Engine Hard To Or Will Not Start.
Engine Crankshaft Turns Freely
Exhaust Smoke Can Be Seen While Starting
(Go to Step 1)
Cold Outside Temperatures
Slow Cranking Speed
Air In Fuel System
Low Quality Fuel
Low Fuel Pressure
Fuel Injection Timing Not Correct
Valve Adjustment Not Correct
Defective Fuel Injector(s)
Water In Fuel System
Starting Aids Failed Or Not Used
Exhaust Smoke Cannot Be Seen While Starting
(Go to Step 12)
No Fuel In Tank(s)
No Fuel From Transfer Pump
No Fuel To Injectors
Exhaust System Not Open
Solenoid Does Not Energize
Low Fuel Pressure
Bent Clevis On Governor
FRC Setting Too Restrictive
Cold outside temperature:
It may be necessary to use starting aids, or to heat
engine oil or coolant at temperature below 10 C
Slow Cranking Speed:
Cranking speed must be at least 100 rpm. Check
the condition of the starting system.
Air in the fuel system:
With air in the fuel system the engine will normally
be difficult to start, run rough and release a large
amount of white smoke. To remove the air from the
fuel system, loosen the return line to the fuel tank
and put 35 kPa (5 psi) of air pressure to the fuel
Do not use more than 55 kPa (8 psi) of air pressure in the
fuel tank or damage to the tank may result.
Check for leaks at the connections between the fuel
tank and the transfer pump. If leaks are found, tighten
the connections or replace the lines. If there are no
visual leaks, remove the fuel supply line from the tank
and connect to an outside fuel supply. If this corrects
the problem, the suction (standpipe) inside of the fuel
tank has a leak.