Heat-indicating "crayons", which are placed on the ring gear and melt at a
predetermined temperature, may be obtained from most tool vendors. Use of these
"crayons" will ensure against overheating the gear.
Use a pair of tongs to place the gear on the flywheel with the chamfer, if any, facing the same
direction as on the gear just removed.
Tap the gear in place against the shoulder on the flywheel. If the gear cannot be tapped into place
readily so that it is seated all the way around, remove it and apply additional heat, noting the above caution.
Install a new oil seal ring, if used.
Attach the flywheel lifting tool and, using a chain hoist, position the flywheel in the flywheel housing
(use guide studs) or clutch housing. Align the flywheel boltholes with the crankshaft boltholes.
Install the clutch pilot bearing (if used).
Install two bolts through the scuff plate 180 from each other. Snug the bolts to hold the flywheel
and scuff plate to the crankshaft. Remove the guide studs.
Remove the flywheel lifting tool.
Apply International Compound No. 2, or equivalent, to the threads and to the bolthead contact area
(underside) of the remaining bolts. The bolt threads must be completely filled with International Compound No.
2 and any excess wiped off.
International Compound No. 2 must never be used between two surfaces where
maximum friction is desired, as between the crankshaft and the flywheel.
Install the remaining bolts and run them in snug.
Remove the two bolts used temporarily to retain the flywheel, apply International Compound No. 2
as described above, then reinstall them.
Use an accurately calibrated torque wrench and tighten the bolts to 50 lb ft (68 Nm) torque.
Turn the bolts an additional 90120(Fig. 2) to obtain the required clamping.
Since the torque-turn method provides more consistent clamping than the former
method of flywheel installation, bolt torque values should be ignored.
Figure 2. Torque-Turn Limits